Gian Marco Revel – “This is a clip about fun wave sailing in Ohau, Hawaii, mainly focused on a special spot that I love, Toes! Thanks to Giacomo Revel and Christopher Mahnke (drone) for filming, Stefano Caraceni for Editing and Fanatic/North Sails/Ion/Surf Paradise Riccione for the support.”
Thomas Traversa – “Some wavesailing in Portugal last year. there should a proper edit with a little story coming soon 😎
music: AIR by KIDS N CATS
🎥 SIAM images & Sophia Traversa”
Onboard with Andy Laufer training for the Dunkerbeck GPS speed challenge Worldcup 2018 at Sotavento/Risco del Paso – Fuerteventura. Crystal clear waters and beautiful slalom sailing conditions.
The Mediterranean – the variety of spots, the food, the people and most importantly- the wind – make this region a firm favourite for windsurfers looking to indulge in some quality rest and recreation. Only a few hours flight time from the UK but completely different in terms of climate and culture, the Mediterranean is a region begging to be explored. From the beautiful Catalan coast of Spain to exquisite islands in Greece and everything between, we bring you a guide to some of the Mediterranean’s great windsurfing hotspots. Offering flat water paradises, waves, bump and jump and perfect spots for learning and improving, the Mediterranean has it all, just choose what conditions you want. To help pick the best spot for you, Sportif Travel and Planet Windsurf break the region down into where is best for who and we list micro guides to some of the best places to windsurf in Greece, Turkey and Italy.
2018 MEDITERRANEAN HIGHLIGHTS
Need a breakdown of what spots to go to in the Mediterranean? Jane Faughan from Sportif Travel and Marcus Bull from Planet Windsurf give us their guide to some highlights of the region.
Sportif offer 12 different Greek resorts. For beginners we recommend Psalidi or Kefalos, Kos with superb flat water. Freestylers head to Sigri, Lesvos or Palekastro Bay, Crete, with self-catering apartments and villa options. Mykonos or Karpathos, with 3 bays and offshore bump and jump, are uncrowded, high wind favourites. Lemnos or Prasonisi, Rhodes have flat water and waves. Luxury Cyprus hotels and villas have sailing, tennis, horse riding and scuba diving, Keros has kitesurfing, Samos mountain biking and Karpathos climbing and yoga. For Sportif pro coaching clinics, join Peter Hart or Jem Hall in Rhodes in June.
SPAIN
Best for Families / Wind Foiling / Beaches.
Golf de Rosas on the north Costa Brava coast or Tarifa on the south coast offer spectacular 7km+ beaches, culture and cuisine with quick, daily flights ideal for short stay, 7, 10 or 14+ night holidays. Families and non-windsurfers are well catered for in Golf de Rosas with kids programmes from 6-11 and 12-16 age groups. Tarifa is perfect for multi-sport options. The centres offer the latest 2018 Fanatic and North equipment, windfoil, SUP, excursions, kitesurfing and special junior equipment, discounts for shared boards, kids sail free and family packages with self-catering apartments, villas or boutique hotels with pools.
TURKEY
Best for Flat Water / Beginners / Value.
The Aegean sea provides semi-enclosed flat water bays ideal for all levels from children and beginners to intermediate and advanced, slalom and freestylers. The best conditions are from May to October with Alacati and Teos providing consistent, side-shore winds and centres with flexible rental and instruction programmes, restaurants on the spot, kids clubs and activity programmes, spas, yoga or tennis. There’s something for everyone with options for budget, boutique and all-inclusive resorts with aqua parks, nearby markets, historic sites and excursions available. Turkey offers excellent value with 1 week including return flights and transfers from £499 per person.
Sportif Travel, ATOL protected holidays to 60+ worldwide destinations with over 30 years’ experience. Rental and instruction discounts available with latest equipment from Fanatic, JP, Tabou, Gaastra, F2 and RRD. For offers and availability tel +44 (0)1273 844919www.sportif.travel
Discover unspoilt Limnos in the northern Aegean Sea, with its beautiful beaches and traditional villages, set away from the mass tourism of other Greek islands. The windsurfing spot offers consistent wind, shallow, flat turquoise waters and small, fun waves – a unique location where you can enjoy three types of conditions from the same beach. From June to September you can expect average temperatures upwards of 25°C., warm water and almost zero rain! Stay in comfort in a brand new hotel within walking distance of the spot and chill out in the evenings with the locals, enjoying the warm ambience of Greek taverns.
SARDINIA, ITALY
Best for travelling with non-windsurfing partners.
With its white sandy beaches and crystal clear waters, Sardinia offers an exquisite Caribbean style holiday in the Mediterranean. Easily reached from the UK in less than three hours, Sardinia offers something for everyone, making it the perfect place to travel with non-windsurfing partners and families. Porto Pollo is a bay on the north coast, located on the windiest point on the island. Situated just a short drive from a number of amazing accommodation options, the spot offers plenty of space for beginners and freestylers while providing a great place for non-windsurfing partners to soak up some sun.
RHODES, GREECE
Best for a range of skill levels.
With its historical buildings, cobbled streets, shops, cafes, restaurants and buzzing nightlife, Rhodes is a great destination for the outdoor enthusiast and travelling families. Leading southwards from Rhodes Town is a long stretch of hotel lined beaches with fantastic windsurfing conditions and a brilliant windsurf centre. During the summer months of May to September the wind picks up most afternoons to 20 knots plus, blowing cross-onshore at the windsurf spot. With a great sandy beach entry and fantastic flat water section, it is especially good for beginners in the mornings with textbook bump and jump weather in the afternoon for intermediates.
Speak to a windsurf holiday expert on 01273 921001 or get a real-time instant quote via Planet’s innovative website www.planetwindsurfholidays.comFull ATOL & TTA protection.
Teos is one of the 12 Ionian ancient cities located to the south of the modern town of Sığacık in the Seferihisar district of Izmir Province. The surf center is located on the top of a small sheltered bay on the edge of the Club Resort Atlantis. In the big bay there is a huge space for all intermediate, advanced and expert windsurfers. Flat water behind the island and chop outside – suitable for speed lovers and freestylers.
CONDITIONS AND WHEN TO GO:
The Meltemi is the summer wind in the Aegean, and it blows strongly from the north (around 5-6 Bft). It occurs in the summer months of July to September with a probability of approx. 70%. Even on days with strong wind, nice small waves break in the big bay. Beginners and intermediates can enjoy moderate wind conditions in the morning and afternoons.
LOCAL SPOT:
Situated in a 200m small protected bay in the north, and the bay gives way to the open sea. The constant wind, which blows cross-shore from the left in summer, and flat water in the small bay, offers an excellent learning and practicing environment.
ABOUT THE CENTRE:
The centre is protected from the wind and offers ample space. Showers, changing facilities and toilets are on site. It is also a great place for children to learn windsurfing. In the sheltered small bay area with side shore wind towards the beach, kids can practice without any danger of drifting.
WHERE TO STAY:
Club Resort Atlantis is located right next to our center and a lot of variety makes this fantastic resort a perfect holiday destination for each family member.
Jericoacoara and Icaraizinho are willing to take a risk that no other place on the planet would ever dream of, to place a money back warranty on something as unpredictable as the weather!
Such is their confidence in wind at the two destinations in Brazil, that ClubVentos, transfer providers and selected hotels are backing the wind to be firing throughout the whole of September. They are willing to offer a full refund if more than 50% of your holiday in September is below Beaufort force 4. Essentially, if you don’t get planing (wind related, not ability!) for more than half your holiday, you get your money back!
ClubVentos MD Fabio Nobre:
‘We are so excited to release this new type of warranty into the watersports world. At Clubventos we pride ourselves at being the best and often the first to market with new ideas, and this is certainly one we have worked hard on achieving. Our watersport centres are located in very windy destinations and along with fantastic equipment and a great centre, we can make your dream vacation come true! If you’re spending your hard earned money on a windsurfing holiday, why would you visit somewhere that cannot guarantee wind’
Located in one of the windiest resorts in the world, this part of Northern Brazil receives an incredible amount of wind from August up until end of December. It’s no wonder the world’s best windsurfers go to train there, because they can consistently practice new moves day-in, day-out.
ClubVentos’ resorts in Jericoacoara and Icaraizinho offer a premium beachfront location, 1st class service and are racked with the latest equipment from JP, Starboard and NeilPryde.
For more information about wind warranty and how to book a watersports holiday to Brazil this September – http://www.windwarranty.com/
Digitalformat. (Prices include delivery anywhere globally 10 times a year.)
The Long Glide – Marquesas Islands windSUP Expedition, Jono Dunnett’s Atlantic to Med Adventure, Rough Stuff PWA Slalom, Cotillo Waves, Peter Hart’s Kit Tips, Lake Silvaplana, Graham Ezzy, Foil Gybes Technique, 2018 Windsup Board Test, Robby Swift’s Ho’okipa Guide, Aruba Travel.
BIG JUICY READS
THE MARQUESAS EXPEDITION
Bart de Zwart travels between the Marquesas Islands by sail and paddle on his windSUP and takes us onboard as he recounts a memorable expedition.
BOSS BEACH
When it comes to Canarian beach breaks, Cotillo in Fuerteventura is the boss. John Carter and Timo Mullen take on the challenge with Iballa Moreno.
THE ROUGH STUFF
When the going gets rough, what do you do with slalom stuff? A selection of the world’s best PWA racers share their knowledge and experiences.
REDISCOVERING ARUBA Canadian pro, Philip Soltysiak, rediscovers the windsurfing paradise of Aruba, finding there is much more to the island than just the flat water of Fisherman’s Huts.
JOURNEY TO THE MED
Jono Dunnett updates us on the latest leg of his epic round Europe expedition – the Atlantic coast of Spain and Portugal to the Mediterranean.
HO’OKIPA BREAKDOWN
Robby Swift gives a guide to the iconic wave of Ho’okipa and a breakdown on the ins and outs of sailing his adopted home break.
HIGH WINDS If you fancy windsurfing in the Swiss Alps, 1800 metres above sea level, then Lake Silvaplana is the spot. Christian Mueller and Riccardo Marca tell us more.
FATHER TIME
A newborn baby inspires Graham Ezzy to reflect on his life as a father and son, as the Ezzy windsurfing dynasty continues to grow.
GEAR SHED
WINDSUP TEST The test team review a selection of 2018’s windSUP boards in UK waters. Boards tested are:
AHD SEALION XL FANATIC VIPER AIR PURE 11’0” GA IQ FREE 10’7” WS JP ALLROUNDAIR WS SE 10’6” O’SHEA WIND 100 RED PADDLE CO WINDSURF MSL 10’7” RRD AIRTOURER CONVERTIBLE V4 12’ X 32” STARBOARD SUP WINDSURFING INFLATABLE BLEND ZEN 11’2” UNIFIBER EVOLUTION 10’7”
TEKKERS
PETER HART – THE KIT FACTOR
However good and versatile kit is these days, bad choices are still the number one barrier to progress. Peter Hart offers some prime examples.
SAM ROSS – FOIL GYBES
Sam Ross gives us the tricks and tips for nailing gybes on a foil.
BOARDSHORTS
LATEST & GREATEST
Copied and pasted from confidential files, foraged from the bins of large corporations, this is industrial espionage on a shoestring budget – news and special offers right here.
RYA KNOWLEDGE – YOUTH WAVESAILING PATHWAYS
The RYA take a look at the history of the Tiree Wave Classic and its role as the catalyst for the BWA ‘Future Pros’ Youth Wave Camps.
SITTIN’ ON THE DUNNY
EDITORIAL
– THE LONG GLIDE
The editor explores the art of the glide in windsurfing.
AFFAIRS OF THE HART
– THE LONG AND SHORT OF IT
Whether it’s the behemoths of long boards past or their modern incarnation, windSUPs, Peter Hart contends that, there is eternal beauty in length.
This month I aim to help those of you not yet carve gybing, or perhaps making only a few and wishing to add consistency. It will also help those of you already gybing and wishing to make them smoother and better.
(This feature originally appeared in the April 2018 issue of Windsurf Magazine. To read more features like this first, Print and Digital subscriptions are available.
Prices include delivery globally for 10 x issues a year!)
My tips to follow are taken from how my students learn to carve gybe on my clinics and the skills they actually do both with me and upon their return to sailing on home ground. I will also give you simple principles to visualise and work on. Do not underestimate in your learning process the power of looking at pics, or watching videos of good carve gybes and then visualising yourself in these positions. Our mind is indeed our biggest muscle!The gybe is best learnt in stages and we can conquer this tough move if we have all the basic ingredients to ‘bake’ the gybe ‘cake’. We should also only focus on one phase (part) of the gybe when looking to improve the whole, for example the preparation or the middle transition. In fact on a coaching clinic I will only empower my people to gybe once they demonstrate that they have all the skills that they require and only then, after a few positive attempts will I give them more info. (the ingredients) for the next stage.
Further articles will expand on the gybe and then onwards onto how to really improve your gybes! The gybe is a thing of absolute beauty and as it is said, ‘If it is worth doing, it is worth doing well!’
“ Light wind gybes are the ultimate carve gybe skill builder.”
1. Back hand slides back (further than this), board is flat and lines should be tight. Spot your space to gybe.
2. You have unhooked by bending your arms and you are pulling down on the boom and ready to scissor to gain speed and be ready to carve.
3. After the scissor and with a light sail and flat board, you are ready to begin to roll into the carve as you bend your ankles, feel the rail and begin carving.
The drills Do these drills, build skills, and sail with a focus and a game plan and look to get coached, or self coach yourselves through them and you will be taking an active part in your gybe journey.
Preparation By failing to prepare, you’re preparing to fail and many gybes come undone at the very beginning, and mine too. If your target is to learn or improve your gybes then focus on these skills that follow A LOT.
Principles first
•Backhand waaay down the boom. The most important principle in many many moves. Aim to hit the boom clip on a 140 – 160 boom. •Front hand back on the boom.In close proximity to the front harness line. •Get down James Brown. Be low before unhooking. Think ‘arse in the sea’ and harness lines tight like piano strings. This commits you to the sail’s power, keeps speed and facilitates easy unhooking. •Unhook by bending your elbows from your low position. Do this and you stay low and upset the board less. •Always hang off the boom and keep pulling down on it when unhooked. This keeps the board flat and you away from the rig. TIP: weight the front foot to lighten the back foot for a slick release from the back strap. •Back foot back and on the rail. The back foot can come out pre bear away (or during) but it must be back and next to the back strap. •Scissor/steer a flat board into the gybe. Turn the board downwind (bear away) by pushing through your front leg and pulling through your back leg to gain speed. This means not carving till your board speed is up. The sail will lighten and the rails able to be carved smoothly.
Unhooking Drill Sail along and get very comfy sliding your back hand way back and then slide it back to the sailing position. Did you stay low? Were you looking forward throughout? Now whilst sailing across the wind, (or slightly upwind if well powered) slide the backhand back and following our principles, unhook and keep speed and then hook back in and return to your sailing position. This also improves your early planing, gybe exit and getting in the footstraps. This move is a lifer and a future booster.
Scissoring Drill / unhooked After competency in the previous drill, unhook, be low and scissor (steer) the board off the wind 10 – 15 degrees. Push through the front leg and pull with the back leg, log what you feel and dial in what works best. Did you stay low? Was the board behaving? Did your sail lighten? Feels great when done well.
Light wind gybe Let’s kick off with some questions. Are you doing these? Are they good? Do you understand the main steering actions and key positions? Can you sail clew first? If your answers are not all yes then learning to gybe will be an even bigger challenge. Steer through a gybe (on a big board and small sail) non planing and make a smooth foot change into a clew first position and then rotate rig boom to boom without looking at it.
Clew first drills Steer the board with the sail through 360 degrees in the shallows and rotate the sail and keep it flying throughout and avoid looking at it and aim to pause a while at clew first. This is when the back of the sail is actually your front edge. This drill helps not only your gybes, but also wind awareness, beachstarts and waterstarts. After competency in this, learn to clew first beach start. Lots of great info and tips on this in my Beginner to Winner DVD.
Kit Generous straps to allow you to carve and have a smooth entry and exit from them for foot changes.
Long lines enable you to sail fast over bumpy water and with your front hand back, which aids getting rig forwards and across in the gybe.
Well rigged sail that has control and will breathe for you and work with you.
A board and fin that are not too big as this makes carving easier.
CARVING
‘Roll into the carve by ‘catapulting’ yourself up and into this position’
MID PART
‘Hands back, looking out of the turn. A smooth foot change is aided by practicing it a lot in light wind gybes.’
PREP AND UNHOOK – ANOTHER ANGLE
‘Get down James Brown, prepare well, keep speed and then scissoring into the gybe is easy.’
CLEW FIRST AND EXIT
‘Clew first control and wrestling is necessary for making and improving gybes.’
LIGHT WIND GYBE
‘Light wind gybes are the ultimate carve gybe skill builder.’
Carving Deep Joy The carving (second) phase of the gybe represents quite a small part of the whole move. You’re actually only carving momentarily before you’re into the middle part (sail opening and foot change) and then into your exit phase. Yet this is where you can really lose heaps of speed that you’ve built from mastering the Drills and Skills mentioned previously in your quest for Preparation Domination. Oh yes, you are the pilot and not the passenger.
Principles first • Catapult yourself forward and across into the carve. If you pull in on the back hand subtly and push the rig forwards and slightly across you it will pull you up from your low position in readiness to roll into the carve. This helps keep the board flat. • Roll into the carve. The previous action will let the rig pull you up and then into the carve and now you must go with it, this feels weird at first and if you do it then you have made a breakthrough you will use forever! Soften and then bend at the front ankle and shift weight to the ball of your front foot as you follow and go with the rig. • Keep your front arm extended. The rig is away so it drives you and the rig forward and engages the rail. Aim to see the water in front of you. Note, the sail is pulled in with the back hand, but not excessively so until you’re better at gybing and going into them at full tilt.
Drills to build carving skills
Rolling I have presented the principles to follow, so now with your preparation skills in place aim to roll forward into a gybe attempt. Your only focus is to prepare well and then roll. Your target is not to gybe, it is ‘Roll with it.’ Once there, feel what you have to do to carve the board and once you have done this 10 – 20 times, well then you will understand a lot of more of what I am talking about when it comes to the next phase.
Foot steering In order to further refine your knowledge of how your board’s rails work and your carving skills then you are advised to perform unhooked carving in the straps. Move your hand back, but not all the way, unhook smoothly and them aim to come up onto your toes and carve through your feet, first downwind and then upwind. These are shallow carves and it should feel both dynamic and fun.
Please note all these tips are not exhaustive and there are many more but these are the ones my students and I feel are the most important and deserved of your utmost attention and focus. Nail them and you will be ready for the next phases and the full gybe. They will help you moving forward in the key early phases and your existing gybes will feel a huge benefit!
Pre Gybe Skills
You really need the ‘Trinity’ to nail the gybe, these are:
•Early planing. This means more attempts and on smaller more responsive boards and sails. •Wind range / sailing fast. These both give you a lighter sail and the ability to keep upwind. •Get upwind. You are then in a position to feel confident to scissor downwind into your gybes.
Tacking is also hugely important as it keeps you upwind in gusty conditions and builds more skills than you can ever imagine.
RRD boards, wetsuits & softwear, Ezzy Sails & Black Project fins sponsor Jem Hall. Get him live and direct on one of his highly acclaimed coaching holidays but be quick as they are selling out – check out his fab new site www.jemhall.com for details. You can also follow him on twitter / Facebook / Instagram.
Ross Williams is Britain’s top professional racer and one of the world’s leading slalom sailors. His 2017 racing season was one that saw him sit inside the top three for most of the year but finish in the rankings just outside the podium in fourth after a disappointing final event in Noumea. It was still a highly respectable result and sometimes the more interesting story is in losses not wins; John Carter sits down with Ross and asks him to reflect on his year.
Words&PhotosJohn Carter
This feature originally appeared in the May 2018 issue of Windsurf Magazine
JC: It was not the ideal way to finish the season but were you happy with your racing last year on tour? RW: I went into the event in Noumea knowing that I needed to perform well, so I was happy with my event preparation. I made some mistakes that cost me a couple of results and unfortunately that is the way it goes in the heat of the moment. There were a few factors that didn’t help my decision making! I picked up an ankle injury wavesailing two weeks before the event. It was a pretty bad wipeout at the Bench in K-Bay and I still feel it now. That was the reason that I was not feeling comfortable in certain conditions that we faced. I don’t think it was luck. At that level you need your whole setup working in every condition, that is what makes the difference.
Looking back I think if someone would have asked me at the beginning of the season if I would be happy with finishing fourth in the overall slalom ranking, I think I’d have taken it no problem. I had the chance to take third but it was just not meant to be. I was overall pretty happy with my racing over the whole season. I think I can add up the racing mistakes I made during the events on one hand so I have no real regrets.
JC: How as a racer do you deal with a blow like that after being so close to the overall podium? RW: It does not bother me at all! If anything it just puts more fuel on the fire. After Noumea I was happy that the season was over, I was stoked that I had achieved a solid result and three podiums through the year. Finally the most important thing was that I could go home and spend time with my wife and friends and family, go surf and go sail in the waves.
JC: Does it make you even more motivated to come back next year stronger? RW: Yeah I think so, I really thrive on competing and racing is my strong point. I am one of the best on tour at the moment and I think I still have something more to prove before I get too old to compete at the highest level. I’ve been competing for many years but I am not done by a long way yet.
JC: How much do you respect the likes of Albeau, Iachino and Mortefon who are your main rivals on tour? RW: I have a lot of respect for those guys, they are all great sailors and they have each played a role in really helping me to push my level of sailing too! Not so much as training partners, just more as inspirational characters and the way they train and work hard at being the best in the business. I don’t really think about beating one guy out on the water, it’s every single one of them!
JC: How much does experience count as a slalom racer? RW: Experience is a very nice tool to call upon, just to know your craft more and more is a blessing and that is why a lot of the older guys are still on top!
JC: How much development goes into the new gear for each season? RW: There is a lot of development that goes into the sails and boards, as much as time and budget will allow. If we can make five sets of sails in a development cycle we will. But if we can also do ten we will if it is possible.
The whole programme is based on finding and understanding what to change in the given time period. There is no point changing something if you don’t understand why you are changing it. Ultimately I want equipment that is going to win races, events and a world title. So under those parameters, the equipment must be fast, be able to fight in racing situations, needs to be comfortable to sail in every range of conditions, and very importantly it needs to be strong and not fall apart. If the gear can’t handle a lot of use it is not good for us as team riders or for the paying customers. After all the testing the final product is decided on by the designer, the testers, the market, and the big boss. It all has to work together so we can come up with the best overall products. When we finally choose our equipment for the next season, if there is something I am not happy with, there isn’t anything you can do apart from race as well as you can, report back to your designer and test team and hopefully you can work on that and keep improving the products.
JC: What was the highlight for you last season? RW: I still think winning races in strong winds was my highlight! So racing in Fuerteventura is something I am proud about and finishing on the podium for the third year in a row was very satisfying.
JC: You have spent most of the winter in Maui this year, is that home for you now? RW: At the moment that is where my wife and I rent a house and I try to spend as much time as I can there. It is tricky because my job and all the events are outside of Maui and to travel is expensive. I feel very lucky to be able to go there, not just to be with her but it is also an amazing place with a high level of watersports. Being on Maui really helps you to push your limits.
JC: What is a typical day like for you in Maui? RW: I am for sure living the dream when I am in Hawaii. A typical day for me would be first getting up early between 5.30 and 6am and either heading for a surf or working on the computer to catch up with the latest goings on in Europe and the UK. Then I will usually make sure that my wife and I have breakfast together before she goes off to work. Next up I usually go training around 9 or 10am in the gym with my trainer. After the workout I usually need a rest and am ready to eat again. Then I will check the conditions and go to the beach and either kite, wave/slalom sail or surf. In the afternoon Loreley gets back from work so we might have a late lunch together and then go back to the beach so she can get some sun and I can go back in the water (if it is firing). If nothing is happening then we will stay outside drinking Mate (Argentinian tea), have friends come over or hang out with our families. Then when the sun goes down I go back to working on the computer while my amazing wife usually prepares us a delicious dinner while I play DJ so we can listen to some new music. We both enjoy this. We are usually in bed by 10, so we can be well rested for the next day.
JC: When you come home to the Isle of Wight is that when you just like to follow your passions of surfing and wave sailing at your home spots and escape the training and testing regime?
RW: When I am back on the island, I know how to make the most out of the best tide and condition states, so my schedule always revolves around the forecast. I can’t stand to think that I am on the island and I might have missed the best couple of hours! That is why you might see me paddling out while it is dark, or sailing during the coldest, darkest days during the winter. I love the feeling of challenging myself to score the prime conditions, so work can be rescheduled around those moments.
“ I love the feeling of challenging myself to score the prime conditions.”
Finn Mullen sails a rare day at one of Ireland’s most famous big waves, Mullaghmore, and gives us an insight into the wave and its local crew.
Words Finn Mullen //
PhotosKatie McAnena, Gary McCall.
This feature originally appeared in the May 2018 issue of Windsurf Magazine
In terms of, “biggest, heaviest, scariest waves ever” around the world, Mullaghmore is number five on the list compiled by surfing website www.theinertia.com. The Internet loves top five lists; quantifies everything into a nice order, it’s easy clicking and reading. That’s lovely, but see the funny thing about big waves is they are not very good at being organized, lists or otherwise. There’s no schedule or guarantees, but still we like to measure, compare and contrast them because it brings a sense of order to a very unordered element. We can learn about predicted swell heights and their timing on our phones and computers and it lets us talk with some reason about the unreasonable amount of force on show. But it’s just noise, unwanted noise, the sea will do what it always does, what it wants. And so I sit on the hill overlooking Mullaghmore, looking at a view I’ve looked at many times before, in awe of the unpredictability of this wave. Its chaos is its beauty; its chaos is its beast.
LOCAL HEROS Big wave surfers throng to the waves of this headland from around the world. A good forecast will bring the swell hunters from Australia, South Africa, Hawaii even. The attraction of the challenge travels far, but as long term student of the wave, Cornwall based cameraman Mikey Corker sagely notes, “The best days I’ve had in Ireland have been completely by chance, never forecast.”
I’m still watching the waves, I watch more than I surf or windsurf here because there’s always something to learn …or fear. The best chance of scoring these ‘never forecast days’ comes from long term residence rather than flying in. Hence the headland today is populated by the talented group of locals and ex-pats who live here or nearby, know this wave’s nuances and surf it with technicality and bravado in equal high measure. Most of them are names not lit up in neon marketing banners, surfing this wave well requires more than a sticker. It’s dedication to sit through weeks and months of waiting to maybe have a chance of an incredible ride. That sort of reward is hard to explain in terms of contest results or exposure to a sponsor, it’s more personal than that. So to supplement their surfing deals, people like County Clare charger Peter Conroy have regular jobs, or in Peter’s case, not so regular as he is a fireman. American turned local Dylan Stott is a teacher, when he’s not tucking into massive barrels on his backhand. Peter and Dylan are integral to the community of wave riders at Mullaghmore for not just their inspiring surfing but as they also assist in providing safety cover through the ‘Irish Tow Surf Rescue Club’, which Peter helped co-found. The club was born in 2006 out of a desire to help protect those who surf big waves around the coast of Ireland and develop safety in the sport. Since then they have guarded many sessions around the coast and work with emergency services on exercises, proactively honing skills and best practice procedures. It’s a far cry from the devil may care attitude that is stereotyped onto big wave surfing but it is becoming more common practice around the big wave surfing world and rightly so given the risks involved at Mullaghmore and the other entries on the inertia.com’s list of dangerous waves – Jaws / Pe’ahi, Nazaré, Teahupo’o and Cortes Bank.
PRECAUTIONS Safety is always something that has interested me coming from working at sea where following high profile disasters, such as Titanic and Piper Alpha, the maritime industry sought to improve their safety culture and procedures. As I stare again at the liquid caverns that are unfolding on Mullaghmore’s shallow slab, I run through a risk assessment in my head, because while the club of which I am a member is there to protect me, I am the person foremost in charge of my own safety and so it is incumbent on me to make the right calls. I’ve SUP’d and windsurfed here before, so I know to a degree how the break works. I say degree as every wave here breaks differently and so I respect how I’ll always be a learner not a master. Boils appear mid face, mellow curves turn to ferocious guillotines in the blink of an eye; the power to ruin your day is ever present. I think about the other days I’ve sailed here, each is memorable; some pains don’t fade. I’ve broke bones here, tore ligaments and tendons, humbled constantly. I’m not alone, regulars have all paid a price, the wipeouts are so violent, and each leaves an indelible mental mark.
“The best days I’ve had in Ireland have been completely by chance, never forecast.”
BREAK TIME The wind has not been forecast so I wait to see if it holds. It’s winter, the weather changes quickly on this exposed coast and the shelter of the headland means that the wind in the break is much less than at sea; a surfer’s delight, this windsurfer’s worry. On balance the wind looks stable, gusts are minimal and lulls look able to be sailed through. I meet with Pete and other members of the club and we run through the safety plan for the session. The crew are ready and able to catch some of the heaving lefts Mullaghmore is famous for, it looks tricky to paddle so they opt for tow boards. Short, narrow and weighted down with lead to help them hold a line, they have footstraps like windsurfers but that’s where the similarity ends. Today a tow board is well suited to the waves because the face is such that it’s all about staying in the curl, there’s no clean water to bottom turn as the shape of the wave draws so much water off the reef. The skill of the surfers and the speed they enter the wave at means they can hold that line, I’ll have to be more cautious, you can’t sail here up and down the face like a normal wave as it is so hollow. It’s not the biggest day here by any means, but only ignorance would consider the risk less. I can’t be as deep as the surfers because the headland kills the wind, I can’t straighten out because the inside tears gear in two like it’s tissue paper. Boards disappear here never to be seen again. It’s not a mystery how, just brute force; the ocean is strong here. Biggest wave or biggest wipeout – Mullaghmore has had nominations in surfing awards for both, the latter a wave here won by the way. It’s going to be a case of being selective and using big gear, my trusty 5.5 Blade and Starboard UltraKode 105 litre. I throw on my flotation vest and double down on checks of my kit. Part of the impetus for such organized safety here is how remote the wave is; mistakes are best avoided. I work my way out to the break, marvelling at the wave and the standard of surfing on show. You see gifted athletes catch the waves and wipeouts of their lives here. Sometimes you don’t want to watch, the consequences look so brutal. I trade waves with the tow teams for an hour or so, I’m on the clock as the short daylight of winter is burning and I’ve calculated I need to be in well before dark in case the ‘not forecast’ wind dies. I make it back just as the last gust pushes me to shore and the sun starts its dip to the sea, shining its fading light onto the spectacular mountain range that surrounds the bay. CHANCES The waters at my derigging site are still, but around the corner lies one of the “biggest, heaviest, scariest waves ever”. Quit while you’re ahead is the saying but I wasn’t ahead, I just quit. A gambler knows the house always wins, I’m not a gambler, but I know this wave, any wave, always wins. I can’t compete, only spectate, participate. I help my friends recover the rescue jet skis and we laugh about the near misses we all had and witnessed. Windsurfing here is rare, so rare, because of the topography of the land and the effect it has on blocking the wind. It might be months or years before I get the chance again, maybe never, who knows, who can predict the ocean and our lives, not me. So I happily treasure the rarity to a well held memory of a privilege and note the day well. I’ll put it in my top 5 list on the Internet.