Hawaiians have a saying, ‘Maui nō ka ‘oi’ – Maui is the best – to praise their beloved island of Maui. Since modern windsurfing began, Maui has been viewed as one of the best windsurfing spots in the world and the unofficial capital of our sport. Its consistent trade winds, huge Pacific swells, and tropical weather have attracted many of the world’s most famous sailors to make this magical island their home. Ask any of the locals and they will tell you it is not just the amazing conditions that make Maui such a special location, there are many other reasons why the saying Maui nō ka ‘oi rings true –

read why as John Carter and a selection of pros pay homage to the island.I am up on the hill at Ho’okipa, a place I have spent many hours over the past twenty-five years keeping a beady eye on the weather. The sky over the break is clear but up towards Haiku the approaching clouds are jet black, while over the horizon there is a kind of luminous glow forming. I know from past experience it’s time to run to my car parked up by the guardrail as within five minutes I am pretty sure the heavens are about to open! But before that, the mysterious glow has now grown into a huge rainbow, perfectly framing the view from the sugar cane fields and the point at Pavilions. ‘Wow!’, what an awesome piece of nature! I snap a few shots off before dashing up to the car as the heavens open. Out on the water, none of the sailors are particularly bothered and within five minutes the sun is shining again, the trades are still blowing and the waves are pumping.

Words  &  Photos  John Carter

Originally published within the October ’17 edition.

MAUI WEATHER
For sure, any two days are never the same on Maui and many are blessed with glorious sunshine with just a few puffy white clouds driven along by the Pacific trade winds. The weather alone in Maui is enough to keep you enthralled and for me personally add to the charms of the island. At dawn the sun rises to the east up beyond Haiku and for those dedicated enough to have made the thirty eight mile drive up to the top of Haleakala (Maui’s 10,000 feet high dormant volcano) the view of the sunrise is truly spectacular. They call Haleakala ‘House of the sun’ and its eerie presence can always be felt wherever you are on the island. By 5 p.m. the sun has climbed across the sky towards the West Maui mountains, often casting ghostly rays between the valleys as it dips behind the lush green mountains. Some days when it is showery the rain only makes it as far as Paia, the main town on the north shore and sailors down the coast at Spreckelsville and Kanaha are blessed with the view of a perfect rainbow locked in upwind which sometimes can last thirty or forty minutes. The trades tend to kick in anytime between nine and noon, and once the east or north east winds start to rustle through the cane fields, Maui’s windsurf crew can be pretty sure there will be action on the water. From October right through until May there are waves in Hawaii pretty much every single day, ranging from head high to 50 feet and above!

HO’OKIPA
Devout wave sailors mostly stick to Ho’okipa as their ‘go to’ spot. From dawn through to around noon the surfers generally have control. If there are more than ten in the water, then it’s a no go for windsurfers and on top of that, if there are more than five windsurfers, kitesurfers are also forbidden. Consequently quite often a few kites might sneak out at the beginning of the day but once the windsurfers hit the water then they are out of luck. The lifeguards at the yellow tower police the water and will sound a buzzer if anyone is infringing the rules. Come late afternoon when the wind dies then the break is handed back over to the surfers for the last few hours. So with waves in high demand at Ho’okipa it is not surprising that there are very few sets from dawn right through until dark that go unridden. Somehow through all that chaos pretty much everyone that hits the water can score a slice of the pie. Obviously the more aggressive you are or the better you are the bigger your slice will be but there are usually a few scraps to please everybody and you will always hear a few ‘wows’ on the beach at the end of the day.

Back in the late eighties and through the nineties, there was much more of an anti-Euro vibe at Ho’okipa. The Maui locals used to mock the likes of Dunkerbeck, Bringdal and other blonde haired racers that were competing at the huge spring and autumn wave events each season. In those days all the racers had to do the wave events in order to compete for the overall title. Needless to say, Dunkerbeck soon quietened down his critics when he won the Aloha Classic and beat all the Hawaiian locals, en-route. Fast forward to the present and the atmosphere both on and off the water has much more of an Aloha feel about it. Of course when it’s busy the odd temper can fray on the water but all in all, Ho’okipa is pretty relaxed both on and off the water. Ho’okipa’s legacy makes it a special place for windsurfing. Many reckon this is the one break any wave sailor must master to ultimately prove their worth! Titles have been won and lost here, reputations fought for and new moves invented.

When the swell is pumping, so come the tourists, many watching from the top car park as you drive into Ho’okipa. On the hill to the left and down on the rocks the photographers hungrily gather, waiting like a pack of sharks hoping to hunt down the elusive ‘shot’. Big wave days in Maui are truly spectacular and are normally full of drama as the brave take on nature’s power in a close knit battle between agony and ecstasy. Those that are unfortunate enough to be washed over the rocks have to pray not only does their kit survive but also their bodies as the surging whitewater slams them against the boulders.

Meanwhile for those that earn their stripes by shredding the big waves and nailing the big moves its payday for their sponsors as the likes of Jimmie Hepp snaps all the action for social media. Late in the afternoon, the sets rolling in down at Lanes always look incredible as the glistening wave faces plume with spray. Ho’okipa is probably the most photographed windsurfing spot on the planet and during the spring it can literally become a circus with all of the windsurfing shoots in town.

XXL
When the winter swells hit XXL then it is a whole different ball game and the centre of attention is the world renowned Jaws or Peah’i. You can sense the buzz on Maui when a huge swell arrives. For one thing if you live close to the beach you can probably either feel or hear the giant swells detonating on the outer reefs. The gas station in Paia the night before is often congested with Jet Skis filling up their tanks since most of the surfers leave pre-dawn. Driving along the Hana Highway up past Mamas Fish House and Lanes on a big day you can’t help but be distracted by the surf crashing along the stunning north shore coastline. The unmade road down to Jaws isn’t signposted and follows a bumpy dirt track through the Cane fields before you reach the look-out point at the top of the break. Here you have a bird’s eye view of the break, which is about 300 metres away from the cliffs. When the swell is really pumping the track down to Jaws can be very congested and is sometimes policed; if it has been raining it can be a nightmare in a 2 wheel drive so watch out. I had a ‘wow’ moment many years ago as my wife and myself slid out of control in our car in the mud but fortunately came to a grinding halt at the edge of an overhang at the bottom of the track. Further down the coast at Spreks and Kanaha the waves are still spectacular and if Ho’okipa is maxed out and the pros don’t want to ride Jaws they can often be seen shredding at Kanaha on the bigger days. If the wind is not blowing on a high surf day it is well worth the drive to go check out Honolua Bay on the west side of the island. Unlike the reefs on the north shore, Honolua is a perfect peeling point break and the views of the surfing from the cliffs is up close and spectacular.

NORTH SHORE SPOTS
Aside from Ho’okipa there are three other main sailing areas on the north shore, Spreckelsville, Camp One and Kanaha. All these areas have their own merits. Working our way down the coast – Spreckelsville or ‘Sprecks’’ is an awesome playground for jumping, cross onshore wave riding and the odd freestyle manoeuvre on the inside. The beach here is sandy and picturesque with a lot of dead trees hanging in the water downwind. Parking is limited here and the narrow dirt track can be a nightmare when cars are trying to shuffle in and out. Camp One, the next spot downwind from ‘Sprecks’ offers awesome jumping conditions but is a no go for parking unless you know somebody with a house along the adjoining Stable Road. It is a shame that much of this stretch of coast is mostly inaccessible as there are some really nice palm fringed areas but also lots of expensive houses with private beachfronts. Kanaha, downwind again of Camp One, is much more welcoming and has two huge parking lots, lifeguards, picnic areas and grassy rigging spots. It is the place you will find most racers tuning their kit up pre-season in March, April and May as well as the majority of Maui’s windsurfers due to its facilities and wide range of water states from flat water to bump and jump and waves. Kanaha can be and is used by windsurfers of all abilities from beginner to pro and certainly strongly contradicts any notion that Maui’s north shore is just for the pros.

SAILING WITH STARS
Wherever you decide to sail on Maui don’t be surprised if you find yourself blasting out alongside the likes of Robby Naish, Brawzinho, Kevin Pritchard or many of the island’s other legendary residents. All of these guys are still regular windsurfers at the end of the day and if the conditions are firing, especially at Ho’okipa, then most likely you’ll catch these guys out on the water. Nearly all the top names are very approachable and in Maui the chances are you are going to see plenty of them at the beach. Remember an average day at Ho’okipa is pretty much the equivalent to your ‘wow’ day of the year on the south coast of England. When Ho’okipa is really firing then you will most likely witness some of the most spectacular windsurfing you will ever see.

PAIA AND BEYOND
This quirky town of Paia is situated a mere seven miles from the airport and is the last stop before Ho’okipa which is a couple of miles further up the Hana Highway. Over the years Paia has endured a few face lifts but it still retains plenty of its charm and hippy style character with its colourful facades, cosy coffee shops and the ever quirky Mana Foods health food store. Flatbread Pizza owned by Josh Stone is a favourite with windsurfers and tourists alike while the long standing Paia Fish Market restaurant sells the tastiest fish burgers and awesome quesadillas.

The north shore of Maui has a very laid back island style feel about it and unless you get stuck in the escalating problem of evening traffic flooding back from Kahalui back towards Paia, there is very little in Maui life to cause any stress. Aside from windsurfing there are so many things to do on the island. The road to Hana is an awesome way to spend a day exploring and seeing the greener more tropical part of the island.

Once past Paia the Hana Highway passes through the neighbourhood of Kuau, and the infamous Kuau Mart, another great lunch and breakfast store which is a favourite amongst many of the sailors. To start the day their amazing coffee hits the mark, while their ‘Poki’ (raw Tuna) is what most pros lust for after a Ho’okipa session and of course, they sell icy cold beer for those thirsty après sailing. Once past Kuau, the highway hits the ocean right at Mama’s Fish House, one of the more expensive and exclusive restaurants on the island. Most meals with a starter here are going to set you back at least $100 which is about the equivalent of five decent meals anywhere else so unless it’s a special occasion then it is off the budget scale for most of us mere mortals. Once the highway winds past Lanes and Ho’okipa the road then meanders its way around various valleys and gulches until you pass the several turnings that take you up into Haiku. Many of the sailors live in this maze of roads and lanes that wind through the jungle and Haiku is also home to the ‘Cannery’ where the likes of Goya, Maui Fin Company and many other custom windsurf companies can be found. The coffee shop next to the Pauwela Cannery is a popular morning haunt for the likes of Keith Teboul, Levi Siver and many other sailors who live up in the area.

After Haiku, the highway then slows right down as it winds its way around the coastline all the way up to Hana which is a good hour or two drive from Paia if you take your time and stop at some of the amazing view points along the way. Twin Falls is a popular hike about 10km past Haiku on the left of the highway and further towards Hana you’ll find the beautiful rainbow eucalyptus trees, the stunning Honamanu Bay and Kaenae Point, a beautiful place for a breather and a stroll before the last stretch of the road to Hana. Carry on past Hana and there are two amazing hikes, the first at the seven sacred pools and then a more arduous 5km trek through the bamboo forest to a stunning waterfall at the end of the trail which is well worth the effort on a rare non windy day!

THE WEST SIDE
The west side of the island is also well worth exploring. Once you hit Kahalui, simply turn left at Dairy Road and you will find yourself headed towards Lahaina through the central valley between Haleakala and the West Maui Mountains. This whole valley is covered with beautiful green sugar cane fields and the aroma of the burning cane can often be smelt when driving around. The ash of the cane is referred to by the locals as ‘burning snow’ but could soon become a thing of the past since the industry is set to be shut down and who knows what will become of the vast areas of land in its place. When the wind is from the north, Kihei becomes a very popular flat water sailing spot and escape from the rainy north shore. Due to the shape of the valley between the two mountain ranges the wind accelerates during a northerly flow and Kihei can be easily two or three times windier than Maui’s regular sailing locations.

Maalaea Harbour around one third of the way to Lahaina is one of the main departure points for boat trips and whale watching cruises on the island. Many trips will take you snorkelling to the half-moon shaped volcanic crater known as Molokini, while during whale season November through until May, it is well worth taking a dedicated whale watching trip. Without doubt seeing the north Pacific Humpback whales breaching close up and personal is one of Maui’s amazing wonders and personally my first whale watching trip was a huge ‘wowser’ moment when I witnessed one of these beauties breeching in front of Lahaina. If you are lucky you can even spot the whales frolicking outside Ho’okipa in the right season but for the most part these amazing mammals congregate around Kihei and Lahaina.

Past Maalaea, the highway will take you on a beautiful drive around the West Maui Mountains hugging the shore all the way to Lahaina. This stretch of the coast is quite rocky and shallow and many of the breaks such as Thousand Peaks and Launiupoku are very popular with stand up paddlers and longboarders. The old town of Lahaina kind of centres itself around the old Banyan tree that is the symbol of the city. Being in close proximity to most of the island’s bigger hotels, Lahaina is far more bustling with tourists than the north shore and its main thoroughfare, Front Street, is awash with restaurants and art galleries. Beyond Lahaina there are several sailing spots that work in north winds and big swells that most Maui locals would prefer us not to mention so we won’t ponder on them. As mentioned previously, the world renowned Honolua Bay is the west side’s best known surf spot but can be very crowded and is a definite ‘no go’ for stand up paddle when it’s pumping.

Maui is so diverse and there are so many nooks and crannies to explore it is impossible to cover every amazing aspect in one short feature. Obviously not every day on Maui is a ‘perfect’ day but it does occasionally lock into patterns where you are constantly mesmerized by the weather and the ‘dream’ conditions. When you are out amongst those big swells marching their way towards the shore, there is a special feeling when you are in Hawaii. Don’t be surprised if a turtle rears up right in front of you either. The ocean here has a huge impact on everyday life in Maui and dictates the way most surfers and windsurfers plan out their days. Aside from the incredible sailing, the island offers so many activities to see and do. From surfing, hiking, whale watching and mountain biking to fine dining, stunning beaches, snorkelling or simply savouring beautiful sunsets there is rarely a dull moment on this Hawaiian paradise. After all my years of travel many people ask me where is my favourite place to visit and at the end of the day, looking back at all the amazing times and experiences I have had in Maui it just has to come top of the list!

JOHN SKYE
“Maui has always been my dream location. I grew up watching the classic videos like Rigmarole and Heart and Soul and they were all based on Maui and focussed on the fun of sailing. It was always a dream to go there and I remember the first trip just being in awe of the place. The beaches, the shops, the restaurants and everything about it. Still to this day it holds something really special for me and it is the one place I travel to that always makes me more excited than anywhere else. My experience is that people either love it or hate it. For me it is definitely a love place and I hope I can keep going back there year after year! The conditions are for sure amongst the best in the world in terms of quality, but always more importantly consistency. It seems to be a great mix of peaceful island life, but with enough other stuff to do to keep you from going island crazy. One of the nicest things is that it really hasn’t changed much in the 15 years I have been going. Some shops and restaurants have changed their names but the feel of the place remains the same. You can still go to the fish market on a Tuesday evening and find Brawzino, Polakow, Swifty or even JC eating a fish burger and there is a real community spirit to the place!”

KEVIN PRITCHARD
“The most amazing thing about Maui is all the other activities you can do here. Most people think the island is only about windsurfing, but you can also mountain bike or ride motocross which I also love to do. The road cycling has some of the most captivating views in the world and the waterfall hiking is second to none. I love how island life is slowed down just a bit. People are relaxed, the vibe is cool and there is delicious food on offer as well. To top it off, there is never a need for a movie; I just head down to Paia for some of the most epic people watching I have ever witnessed!”

VICTOR FERNANDEZ
“Beside the consistency of the conditions for windsurfing, I love the island life because it´s quiet and when I come to Maui it has the lifestyle I´m looking for. Staying with my wife in a place like this is perfect for us. I don´t know many other beautiful places where you can go to waterfalls, hike in the mountains and live in board shorts everyday even when it´s raining”

BRAWZINHO
“I love Maui for many different reasons, obviously it is one of the best spots for windsurfing, surfing and many other action sports such as mountain biking, road biking, diving, tow surfing …the list goes on. The landscapes are amazing; there are endless hikes / waterfalls you can go to. I also really enjoy that people are into a healthy lifestyle, based on being active during the day and going to bed early at night. The island is getting a bit more popular now and sometimes there is a bit of traffic, but it is nothing compared to big cities. Coming from Fortaleza / Brazil where we get stuck for hours, I love how on Maui traffic will never be more than a 10 minute delay. The one last thing I love is that people really make time for enjoying themselves, making BBQ’s, spending time at the beach etc. Sometimes in bigger cities people forget a bit about that when they are going full power on their work routine or trying to make more money, I really find it important to save time for just resting, being mellow and enjoying family and friends.”

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