WINTER’S TALE - NAZARÉ

Ever since the day I saw Garrett McNamara catch that monster from Nazaré on CNN news I have wanted to ride this wave. Last year I tried to get there but logistics were just not in place and I was not feeling ready. This year –after many discussions and finally connecting with one of the best crews from Nazaré – I felt way more confident to try and sail this crazy wave. This is the story of my Nazaré mission.

Words Jason Polakow

// Photos Red Bull Media House

FOCUS
From November to February my attention has been focused on Nazaré. I noticed that good size swells hit there regularly throughout the winter months but getting the right wind direction and strength narrows down the window quite considerably. Finally, after three months of waiting impatiently, a good forecast presented itself and even though the wind was borderline for windsurfing, I decided to try. The production team along with many other people connected to this project reached more than 20 people. The most important people on this team, to help make the vital decisions, were without doubt my fellow Red Bull athlete Andrew Cotton, Portuguese Big-Wave surfer Hugo Vau and local photographer Jorge Leal. Andrew and Hugo are one of the best tow teams at Nazaré, so having them as my water safety was amazing. Jorge Leal, the lead photographer, was another vital cog in this machine and without his help this project may not even have happened. Thanks Jorge.

THE CALL
Because the call was so tight on whether to go or not, I did not book my ticket until two hours before departure. I had been “semi” packed for two months with all my bags in the garage just waiting for the call. I can’t tell you how many times I packed and unpacked my clothing bags during the course of this winter season. Due to the last minute call I only arrived the evening before the swell and was happy to at last get my first real impression of Nazaré. I sat with Andrew, Hugo and Jorge at the point of Nazaré and took in the amazing view. The point of Nazaré is one of the most beautiful and dangerous spots I’ve seen. The iconic red lighthouse and building sits high above the waves and the inside building bares a reminder of the war between the French and Portuguese in the early 18th century.

I walked onto the rooftop where the lighthouse sits and made my way to the edge of the roof where the two corners drop away to the sea cliff. From more than 150 feet up, and looking straight below, I took my first glimpse of the waves hitting the cliff face. The whole northern side of the cliff is a death trap, so if you fall in front of the point and miss the jet ski pick up your life is in real danger. I spent the late afternoon talking to the safety crew about the break to help educate myself as much as possible and going through the emergency procedures if I was to get into difficulty.

“ Nazaré is just another monster entirely ”

DAWN REALITY
I went to sleep feeling more confident about the break, but upon waking the next morning and seeing the new swell hitting the point and beach break, that confidence I had quickly diminished. I watched as waves broke in all directions and there was no real line-up where I thought I could sit. There were 20 foot waves breaking everywhere and from all different directions. Waves broke where other waves finished, a truly scary sight when trying to ride large waves and be safe. Seeing these pictures of Nazaré in magazines and videos online just do not give you a clear picture on just how difficult this place is to catch a wave at. By 11am a slight breeze had hit the Red Bull wind-sock that was perched right on top of the lighthouse. I knew this was my time to try. It was now or never and I just hoped by the time I was in the line-up, the wind would pick up enough for me to sail.
I have been to other locations in the past where I have waited too long and missed the small window of wind that the day provided. So, better to be out there sitting in the line-up than waiting on the shore line.

SHOW TIME
I took a fishing boat-ride out to deep water off the lighthouse point with two Portuguese fishermen who did not speak a word of English. They each stood quietly and just looked out to sea as we made our way offshore. The trip out was slow, so I had time to reflect on things but nothing prepared me for my first look at waves from sea level breaking off the lighthouse point. The waves looked giant and when we got closer I could see the real magnitude of my situation. For me the most worrying thing was the lack of wind and knowing that I would be drifting around the impact zone with no speed to get away from any dangerous situation.

At that point in the boat I had to stop thinking and looking at the waves and just concentrate on the job in front of me. Small steps like rigging up, getting my wetsuit on and going through my breathing exercises kept my mind busy and focused. I told myself I had gone past the point of no return and to just get on with it. Once I told myself that, my mind started to calm down.
The wind had come up a little and it was time to get out there. I finished my can of Red Bull, threw my gear off the boat and jumped onto the awaiting jet ski to get me closer to the impact zone. The wind was way too light to sail around, so working with Hugo to get me in the right position was essential to my success. I sat with Hugo on the ski, holding my gear as we motored into position to get a closer look at the line-up. I have to say sitting right in the impact zone watching massive waves break all around you was incredibly intimidating. It is not like Jaws or Fiji or Teahupo’o where you can sit and be relatively safe. Here you are truly exposed and it’s really the first time I’ve sailed a huge beach break.

I was looking for a right-hander but the best waves were finishing right in front of the lighthouse point, which was the most dangerous place to finish your ride in Nazaré. Once there you are totally at the mercy of the ocean and reading the waves in this area is almost impossible. South waves jack up without warning, swing across the point and join up with another wave and double in size and break without any way of reasonable prediction. This is the reason tow teams spend years down here working to ensure a fast pick-up after surfers finish their ride. If you wipe-out off the point and the ski does not pick you up before the next wave you are probably going to end up on the rocks right in front of the cliff and in big trouble. For these reasons I tried to find some waves a little further up the beach where I would be safer if I was pushed inside but the waves were just not as good there. After an hour of unsuccessful rides we decided our only option was to ride the waves into the point. At this stage I had to put my life in Hugo’s and Andrew’s hands and trusted they would be there if things went wrong.

PERIL POINT
We positioned the ski as best we could with help from communication radios from Jorge. The biggest challenge was getting in the perfect spot. You look to the outside and the waves seem like they are going to break. Then they back off slightly. Then they hit the beach and stand up again. From the cliff top it looks manageable but when you’re on the water it’s so hard to read where the wave is going to break. You are never in a safe place at Nazaré!

Set waves come in on such extreme angles that it actually changes the direction of wind on the wave. Some waves were too onshore and some waves were too offshore to ride. Other sets came in from two different angles and merge together anywhere along the point or beach making it a game of chance rather than skill. The tow surfers with their jet skis can chase these waves doing 30 to 40 km/h, finding that perfect spot. But on a windsurfer in 12 knots of wind you just have to be super lucky. I sat in the water for 6 hours and had two good waves. You can’t imagine how hard it is to stay focused and energized throughout all this time, especially when your adrenaline is pumping all day and you can’t eat. Luckily we came prepared and had plenty of water, Red Bull and protein shakes on the jet ski.