THE ISLE OF PINES

NEW CALEDONIA

Words & Photos Riders.nc – www.riders.nc // Additional info www.isle-of-pines.com

l’île la plus proche du paradis (“the closest island to Paradise”) is the idyllic French nickname for the Isle of Pines, commonly referred to as the ‘Jewel of the Pacific’. Following his victory in the last PWA slalom event of 2015 in New Caledonia, Antoine Albeau along with Maciek Rutkowski, Fred Morin, Stephane Vuduc and Paul Halbedel headed to this little known tropical outpost to find out just how close to paradise they could venture.

“ The closest island to Paradise” is the idyllic French nickname for the Isle of Pines ”

ISLAND HISTORY

Isle of Pines is approximately 18km long and 14km wide and as its name implies has a prominently pine tree skyline, set against white sand beaches and turquoise lagoons. Known as Kunie to its Melanesian inhabitants, the island is part of the French-Pacific territory, New Caledonia. Situated at the southern tip of this archipelago, it sits almost astride the tropic of Capricorn at 21.25° South, 167.25° East. It became known as “the closest island to Paradise’’ thanks to a film based on a book written by Japanese writer Katsura Morimura in 1964. The history of its real name can be traced back to Captain James Cook, who in 1774 on his second voyage to New Zealand gave the island its name after seeing the tall native pines. He never disembarked onto the island, but as he saw smoke, assumed it was inhabited. The French took possession of the island in 1853 from the native Kunies and later the island became a French penal colony, home to 3,000 political deportees from Paris.

THE KUNIES

Today the island is less populated than previously and remains extremely protected by the tribal system. After such a turbulent history, it’s understandable the Kunies guard their land closely. Isle of Pines has become an indigenous reserve and the land is neither for sale, nor for rent.

There are roughly 2000 inhabitants, 95% of whom are Melanesians or Kanaks. For traditional, cultural and social reasons, these indigenous Kunie people are formed into eight tribes, each with their own ‘little chief’ and governed as a whole by a High Chief.

The island is divided rather like a cake and the Kunies live scattered around the island in their own tribal area, mainly in order to cultivate their yams. Many of them also live in the only village, Vao, where the schools (kindergarten, primary and secondary) are to be found, as well as the church, the Town Hall, a medical centre (doctor, nurses, dentist and a mid-wife), several general stores, the market, a bank and the post office.

“ Isle of Pines has become an indigenous reserve and the land is neither for sale, nor for rent ”

While the Kunies speak their own unwritten language amongst themselves, French is the official language in schools, business, administrative affairs and tourism. English is not widely practised, but in key tourist spots someone will usually speak fairly fluent English and others may have a smattering. Whether you speak French or not, visitors often remark on the friendliness of the local people and their readiness to say bonjour!

PINES TIME

Only a twenty-minute flight south of Noumea (the capital of New Caledonia), the island seems to concentrate all the beauties of the Pacific into its small area. Beginning with a relaxed way of life, the smile on the locals’ faces and their

talent to never rush time. “A quoi bon le compter, il ne s’arrêtera jamais’’ – (“Why measure the time, it will never end”), they seem to try to help us understand. Antoine and his crew were extended a warm welcome on arrival, typical of the noted warmth of this island’s tribes. After a reception with traditional
ceremonies and welcome by the tribe chiefs, the windsurfers retired to their bungalow at the Nataiwatch guesthouse (www.nataiwatch.com), one of the trip’s
sponsors, to relax for an hour before starting to explore the island by a boat bound for Upi bay, famous for its rich coral formations.

ROOTS

Seafaring runs deep in the island’s culture and the isolation of the Kunies no doubt accounts for their prowess as navigators and cultivators of root vegetables. Both these occupations give rise to their traditional art and customs. The large, heavy yam (l’igname) is the focus of Kunie customs and pivot point of their calendar. It signifies the community, sharing, life, man and the fruits of his labour. It is exchanged at special feasts and is a standard wedding gift and bereavement offering. All the islanders participate in planting it in September/October. Then the first harvest, in March, is marked by its benediction and one of the year’s most important customary rituals.

“ The island seems to concentrate all the beauties of the Pacific into its small area ”

Wooden outriggers (pirogues) with elegant, triangular sails are still built on the Isle of Pines and used for fishing and tourism. In fact the island is the only place in New Caledonia where such construction flourishes.

Kunie know-how is also evident in the building of their traditional thatched huts with their astonishing, umbrella-style roofs. Such activities reinforce the values and mutual help of the tribal system.

PARADISE AFFIRMED

After exploring Upi bay, the windsurfers, accompanied by a local chief and Guillaume Kouathe (the owner of Nataiwatch) spent the day on Nokanhui atoll, a sandbank bordered by turquoise water and unquestionably a little piece of paradise.

Sailing in one of the most beautiful lagoons in the world, it was a special session for all the riders. To make the feeling last, they windsurfed back to the bay at Kanumera, a magical beach fringed by columnar pine trees, white sand and turquoise water. Upon arrival, they were greeted like VIP’s with a drink prepared by the staff of Nataiwatch. Time to relax and enjoy the sunset at the beach. That evening at dinner, all the staff of Nataiwatch put together a great surprise for Antoine Albeau, wishing him all their congratulations for his 22nd world title with a beautiful cake and fine speech. It visibly moved the champion who was caught off guard by this genuine touch of hospitality and respect for his achievement.

The next day, the last day of the trip, we returned to Upi Bay, this time in the presence of a local chief who came in a dugout canoe. Only the traditional canoes and local tribes are allowed to enter the bay normally and it was with great respect that we became the first windsurfers to be able to navigate the sacred waters of Upi bay. The riders were able to slalom between rocks and canoes, a moment of pure sharing and camaraderie among windsurfers and local seafarers and a perfect high point to end our trip.

PINES PRACTICALITIES

Getting there
Fly to Noumea, New Caledonia. Best airline, www.aircalin.com
Transfer to Isle of Pines by boat, www.betico.nc or plane, www.air-caledonie.nc

What to do
You can’t rent any gear in Isle of Pines and windsurfing or kitesurfing is only allowed for people who participate in ‘’coutume’’, a traditional ceremony with local people.
Kayaking in Kuto and Kanumera bay, or snorkeling in natural pools near the Meridien Hotel.
Cruise trips in traditional ‘pirogue’ boats with local people.
You can also rent bikes to travel around the island or climbing the Nga peak is also popular.

When to go
The average wind strength in New Caledonia is 12/15 knots and the best time to come for windsurfing is November to April (the summer season, when the wind is stronger and the temperature higher, 22 to 31° C. average).

Where to stay
www.nataiwatch.com – Eco guesthouse – bungalows and camping.
Hotels and other options – www.isle-of-pines.com/lodging.html